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Penetration Factors

Different factors that effect what needs to penetrate your hair and tips on how to shop for the right conditioners for your hair.

It is not easy to go to the store and pick out shampoos, conditioners and other products. I am surprised that more stores have not had to had on new room or find larger buildings just to accommodate the amount of product lines and all the products. Shampoos are pretty general but the conditioners seem to be what people have no idea about, well, besides the styling aids but that is a whole other article. Here is a list of simple things to think about when you head out to vast aisles.

  1. Your hair is like a sponge. It picks up everything. So if your hair is damaged or curly you will end up using more product. If your hair is healthy and shiny you may need less. Keep that in mind.
  2. Some conditioners are made for dry hair, they actually say apply to dry hair. I am not talking about conditioners that are made to make dry hair soft. I am talking about the ones you apply and leave on for long periods of time. They can be helpful but remember the sponge idea. When you use a dry sponge it doesn't seem to absorb things as quickly, you have to get them wet first and then they absorb better. It is the same with your hair. Applying deep conditioners to clean hair, damp hair not only will make it easier to absorb but it will remove anything on the outside that might get in the way of letting the conditioner get inside.
  3. Types of conditioners, wow, there is a million. I am not going to go with any brand names because it would take forever to tell you which ones are good and bad. Lets go with what the bottle says it does.

Detanglers do just that, they detangle your hair. How they work is by making a coating over the hair shaft that covers that outside layer and smoothing it out. Almost like frosting on a cake. The outside of your hair shaft looks like a fish scales and it when it tangles those fish scales are catching on each other. The Detanglers frost over those scales and make them smooth. Either they fill them in or they coat them down, that all depends on the conditioner itself, whether it contains silicone or wax. Para- is wax and usually silicone products will end in cone or it may just say silicone. At least that is what I was taught but some chemical rules do change and manufactures tend to come up with ways of hiding things or rewording. Last I heard they only had to list the top 12 items in a product, but with allergies popping up everywhere and more government requirements, that may change.

Moisturizing conditioners are suppose to add moisture to your hair shaft and make dry, damaged hair softer. Part of that may be true but sometimes they are just adding more of the above ingredients so that there is more to cover up those fish scales. Be careful here too, if it does penetrate then you can add too much moisture and your hair will get limp or feel oily. Also if you hair is too damaged then the moisture may fall right back out if your using any heating products. Moisturizing shampoos are the most over used product I have ever seen. It would be better to moisturize once a week on a day you are not heating your afterwards and then detangle the rest of the week so that it can hold the moisture in. The best way to repair the moisture is from the inside out, so the all tiring statement is coming, drink more water.

Deep conditioners and repair treatments are usually protein type treatments. Again if you hair is that damaged then you need to repair once a week and then detangle the rest. Too much protein can make your hair brittle and dry.

Confused yet? Ready to move on?

  1. Don't use conditioner, you know that is an option. If you hair is healthy and the way you want it and you can get through it with your brush or comb ok, then you may not need to spend the money. You might buy something that will actually through off that fine balance between protein and moisture or coat your hair and make it unmanageable. Another way to get away from conditioning is by brushing your dry hair to pull the natural oils from the scalp. Use a boars hair, real hair or synthetic bristle brush, not a vent brush or brush with plastic bristles, they don't grab the oils.
  2. Get some advice from a stylist. They will most likely try to talk you into some expensive salon products so this is how you get around that. As them if your hair is dry or brittle, or if your hair is limp. Remember dry and brittle is too much protein then you know you need moisture, limp is when you need protein.
  3. Get to know you own hair. Run your finger through your hair, dry and wet, and get to know the feel of your hair. The more you know about your hair and how you like it to feel the better you will be able to help yourself stay there. Remember that the rough feeling may just need Detanglers try that first, if it's not enough then moisturize once a week. Limp feeling hair is a deep conditioner, do not use a moisturizing deep keep conditioner, you want repair.

Hopefully this will be enough to get you started, if you have any questions, suggestions or would like to get a hold of me, please email or comment below, you can also find me all over the web and on myspace. May all your days be good hair days.

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